Seeds. Rhizomes. Plants.
For plants: http://www.greatlakeshops.com/hops-info.html
And has good information.
Where do you get rhizomes–as opposed to seeds.
Where to Buy Hop Rhizomes
By Grow Hops
Where to buy hop rhizomes. I have been asked over and over so I figure I would just put together a post and answer the question of where to buy hop rhizomes online. I got my 2009 hop rhizomes from a local homebrew store Northern Brewer (ordered online even though they are local – still 20 mile drive) – as it turns out, they get their hop rhizomes from http://www.freshops.com. You might as well go straight to freshops.com and cut out the middleman.
You can sometimes find a local homebrew shop or hop grower selling rhizomes, but generally, online buying is more convenient, better selection and you can compare shop. Don’t forget friends and other local hop growing enthusiasts, they may be willing to part with some rhizomes. Barter a couple of homebrews to your friends that are growing hops for some hop rhizomes!
2011, 2012 Let’s Do It Again!
Where to Buy Hop Rhizomes Online:
www.NorthwestHops.com – Choice Hop Rhizomes and the best prices. Don’t pay reseller markup! Family owned and operated Northwest Hops is your only rhizome connection.
www.barleyNvine.com – Our southern connection. Check ‘em out, any southern climate questions – they will be better able to answer than I.
www.willamettevalleyhops.com – We offer hops and hop rhizomes. All product grown and obtained from generations old Willamette Valley, Oregon hop farms.
Highhops.net – 30 varieties of hop plants 48 US states
www.thymegarden.com – 2010 – Taking orders now for our organically grown hop rhizomes while they last. Also wholesale varieties available. Shipping begins in order received approx. March 1st depending on the weather.
www.gorstvalleyhops.com (lots of 10 to 100+)
www.coloradoorganichops.com/?page_id=19 – 2011 update – We will be offering Cascade,Chinook,Nugget and Willamette rhizomes, http://www.coloradoorganichops.com/ Certified Organic for the 2011 growing season. Pre Orders will start the 1st week of January Cheers Glen
RNV Enterprises Yakima Valley – Vickie.email@example.com
www.fourhorses.ca <== Canada Hop Rhizomes
There are more hop rhizome sources, this is what I found Googling “buy hop rhizomes” and supplied links from readers. If anyone has a hop rhizome vendor they have used and are happy with, let me know and I will include it in this list. There you have it, not much time left to get your hop rhizomes planted for the 2009 growing season(now 2010).
From first source. Great Lakes.
Choosing the right Trellis design begins with and ends with an understanding of the hop plant itself. It is very important to understand how hops grow, what makes them produce optimal yields, and what the differences are between varieties and genotypes.
Some thoughts to immediately discard:
- “Poles are expensive so let’s really space them out”
- “don’t need such long poles if I don’t put ‘em 3 feet in the ground”
- “This thinner wire should work . . .”
- “the rows have to be really wide ‘cause I got a big tractor”
- “let’s grow 10 varieties in 4 rows”
- “we won’t need irrigation”
- “fertilizer is just too expensive.”
- “healthy hop plants don’t get bugs or disease.”
- “I’m gonna plant the hops first and then put in the trellis and irrigation . . .”
If you can’t get past these – stop here to prevent wasting a lot of time and your life savings, otherwise continue reading!
American type hops (A type) tend to be large robust, high yielding hops with rather long sidearms; some approaching 48 inches in length. They have vigorous root systems that match their bine size and are quite tolerant of different soil types, pH ranges and growing conditions. “A”-types would include Galena, Willamette, Chinook, Brewers Gold, Columbus, & Zeus. These large hop varieties require space and are usually planted in 14 foot row spacing with 42 inches minimum between plants. Cascade and Centennial are also often planted at this 14 foot row spacing because of their finer plant habit and susceptibility to pests and diseases if crowded too closely. Both of these varieties have shorter side arms so they are normally planted at 36 inch spacing in the rows. “B” & “C” types-(British & Continental Europe types) differ genetically from American types. In general, they are smaller plants with matching smaller, finer root systems. The finer root systems are not as tolerant of different soils, pH levels, and excessive moisture levels. Yields and cone size tend to be lower and smaller per plant; with shorter side arms. Although the yield per hop plant is lower, they can be grow at much higher densities per acre; resulting in about the same yield per acre as the more widely spaced American types. What is the difference between “B” & “C” types? “B” types originate from Britain, where they have been grown for centuries in a more alkaline chalky soil (think cliffs of Dover) that is high in calcium phosphates. These hops are adapted to a well -drained soil that has relatively higher pH range – 6.5 or higher. Some B types include: Fuggle, Challenger, Viking, and all the Golding types. They will tolerate heavier fine soils if grown in raised rows. “C” types originate from Continental Europe and come from countries like Germany, France, and Belgium. Some of these varieties would include Magnum, Perle, Hallertauer types, and Glacier. These hops have been grown for centuries in well drained soils that have a low pH 5.5 to 6.2. This soil type is a more forest-type soil rich in humic acids derived from decomposed leaves or peat moss. Pretty much the opposite of type B hops and even type A hops. (These differences and adaptations between types- A, B, and C’s is what perpetuates the notion that some hops can’t be grown here successfully. (Great Lakes Hops currently has over 75 different hop varieties growing successfully in Michigan trials.) Usually the source of this information comes from growers who have attempted to plant a hop yard that contains all these types together and yet try to treat them all the same – a huge mistake!) B & C types should be planted in trellis configurations with narrower row spacing – 12 foot or even 10 foot or less between rows in some cases. It is critical to form that “forest effect” described earlier. Spacing between hop plants in the rows is again determined by the variety’s sidearm length – the shorter the sidearms; the closer they can be spaced. Many of these varieties can be planted with in-row spacing ranging from 24 inches to 36 inches between plants. These plant spacings are considered high density hop yards here in America, and some special techniques are used to grow them. Hops are grown raised or hilled a minimum of 6 to 12 inches. Lower foliage is removed from the bottom 3 feet of bines to ensure good air movement. Rows less than 10 feet wide are clean-tilled; not inter-planted with a cover crop like clovers. (Row covers elevate the incidence of mildews by 30% or more.) Weeds and mites are often not as troublesome because the higher plant density creates a cooler, shaded mid-canopy and understory that is unfavorable for them. Also, predator and beneficial insects move from plant-to-plant more effectively. The majority of hop varieties are B & C types -all the Noble type hops, and most aroma types fall into this category. Hop growers can really limit their opportunities with craft brewers when they lock into a typical 14 foot row space trellis design.
# of 3 foot hills plus 7 foot minimum between each hill plus 4 to 6 feet = pole space < 44 feet
Clump, uneven or hilled growing is another specialized hop yard design that allows cross cultivation of the hop yard in the 7’ cross row spaces and offers some economy in mechanical weed control and Spring field cultivation, rhizome removal, and reduced amount of hop twine required. Consult with GLH or growers who use this growing style for the pros and cons.
Pole spacing in higher density hop yards can also use an alternating stagger row-to-row; creating a diamond pole pattern which reduces the total number of poles required per acre.
Dripper lines suspended 14”- 18” above rows offer the advantages of easy inspection/maintenance; stay in place year-around; give a coir twine fastening point; and avoid damage from mechanical cultivation. Possible con: cannot cross cultivate hop yard. On the ground drip lines are easily rolled up each season; allow clump-style growing & cross cultivation. Possible cons: harder to inspect, no tie spot for coir twine; prone to more mechanical damage from cultivation. Buried drip tape –not recommended. Cannot inspect, often damaged during rhizome removal, not designed to match the longevity of a hop yard. Overhead sprinklers. Overhead irrigation or center pivot can be used successfully by growers who understand wet leaf diseases and time irrigation cycles to minimize wet leaf periods. Possible cons: has to be elevated to pole height; somewhat uneven distribution of water; cannot be used effectively in windy weather, and is difficult to create different watering zones. Overhead sprinklers are best used in conjunction with drip irrigation to cool leaf temps on varieties susceptible to heat stress.